Self drafted peasant blouse - Part 1

Have you ever loved a piece of clothing so much that you can't bear to part with it? My most recent experience like this has been a peasant blouse. I've worn it to the point that it has holes and stains. If my mum saw me in it, she would send me back into my room to change (thanks Mum!). Rather than bin it, I decided to take it apart to see how it was made and maybe recreate it. I was philosophical about the "loss" of the top. I couldn't wear it in public anymore and it would be worth it if I could cut a pattern. So I gave it a go.

The blouse was slightly a-line raglan style with full length sleeves. The neckline and wrists were gathered. And the wrists slashed and bound with bias. The closures were a small button on elastic, nifty! There was a 2" slash at the centre front that was bound with bias. My favourite feature was the neckline which used a narrow faced neck as casing for a tie, which had great metal beads at the ends to stop the tie pulling through and also made the ties hang when done up.

Before I hacked it apart at the seams I took a moment to plan the process and it was worth it.

1. Make some space - no one was allowed near enough to move/lose anything
2. Set aside some time - the fewer sittings required, the less likely you are to lose or forget something
3. Keep notes - how wide was the bias on the wrists? How long was it? How much was the neckline gathered in? How wide were the seam allowances? Where is the grain line?
4. Mark pieces as they come off - was this the back or front?
5. Look for symmetry - could the front and back be cut on the fold?
6. Think about the reconstruction process - how will this all go together again?

Then came the moment of no return. I used small but sharp scissors to cut the seams apart. This was messy. Lots of little bits of thread.

The pieces were as follows:

• Front (gathered at the neck, cut on the fold with a 2" slit at centre bound with bias binding)
• Back also on fold and gathered at the neck
• Arms - not quite symmetric but gathered at both the neck and wrists - also bias binding on a 2" slit at the wrists
• Three interfaced casing neck pieces - one across the back and two for the front between the shoulders and the neck slit
• Pull ties to thread though the neck and tie together

I measured all the gathers before I pulled them out. I should also mention that the fabric had a stripe woven into it so grain line was easy. I measured all the seam allowances as well. I marked each piece (1 to 7) and then drew up diagrams of them with grain line, gathers, the slits, the seam allowances. Anything I could think of really. Any construction points (eg bind the neck slit before attaching the casing) were also noted.

Next steps: find some cool fabric and think about pattern placement. 

Colette Sewing Handbook Merigue

Before the sewing machine tension palaver, I had cut out my first Colette Sewing Handbook pattern. Whilst I REALLY want to make up the Pastille dress (more about that later) I thought that I should start at the beginning so I've kicked off with a Meringue skirt. In my stash I found some plain cotton-linen blend in a dusky blue. I've had it forever and I'm happy to risk it as (hopefully) a wearable muslin. Perhaps a little lightweight but I also want to line it. I have enough in a mid blue bemsilk remnant.

I've read up on other people's experiences (check my Meringue study on Pinterest). Some comments about sizing so I measured carefully. I'm midway between a 10 and 12 so I cut a 12. Better to be too big than too small.

More research needed on invisible zips. Yes, I've never done one before. But it's got to be done (and it's one of my technique challenges).

In my web trawling I've also found this great tutorial from Roses on Toast for adding lining to a Meringue. Great tip on sewing the lining and waist facing together and then treating them as one piece when sewing to the main skirt.

A little Christmas sewing

I'm testing out my "fixed" machine. I thought it would be smart to start small. Doesn't come much smaller than sewing for The Littlest Cousin. Nothing quicker or cuter than a couple of elastic waisted skirts. The Princess and I took a quick trip to Spotties looking for some girlie fabric. It's harder than you think finding something that we could be sure that she would like. But we found some cute spots - perfect. And then matched the lime green. Two skirts - one with lace and one with a ruffle.

Once again thanks to Blissful Sewing Easy Peasy Summer Skirt for the ruffle skirt pattern and a more recent find at Make It Grand - dimensions for elastic waist skirts for 6 months to 16.

One more present crossed off the list.

The lime green looks much better than this

This is my favourite. Love the touch of lace. 

It's tense here!

So I finally got back to the fabulous sewing machine service people and spent about half an hour with Richard, trying to diagnose my sewing machine issues - tension. I've never had such a technical discussion - stitch line, length, top thread, bobbin thread, thread type, thread quality. And through trial and error, we came to the conclusion that:

1. I could wind my bobbins better - nothing better than watching the expert thread and wind a bobbin. Don't wind too fast - this can stretch the thread and may result in puckered seams.
2. I need to use better quality thread. This is a symptom of using the same thread that I (and my mum) have always used, not realising that it is not as good as it used to be, and not knowing the best alternatives.
3. There's nothing wrong with dialling down the tension to deal with lower quality (rougher) threads. 

So, I'm off to dust off my "current" UFOs. Wish me luck.

My Miette

I have had Andi Satterland's Miette in my favourites on Ravelry for a while now. Not only is it a really cute cardigan, its free! Thanks Andi! I decided it knit it (the first time) in cotton, but I've struggled to find something that I really liked. I don't see much 10ply cotton around. Anyways, I stumbled across some 10 ply wool by Cleckheaton at my local Spotty and kept walking the first time - didn't like any of the colours and was still hanging out for cotton. But then the next time I was browsing, a flash of yellowy-green caught my eye (a colour I wear in one of my most-complimented print dresses). I'd found it!

The wool - the photo doesn't do the colour justice.

I cast on one night on the weekend. I've not knitted in this style before. Top-down, yoke first. I frogged my first cast on. Got distracted in the first few rows where there are lots of yo, ssk and k2tog. Pretty difficult to undo rows with all that going on.  Once I got into the groove the rows grew quickly. Andi uses markers very sensibly, making increases pretty straightforward. I've just started the bust so I've got a ways to go. Having said that, 10ply does knit up pretty quickly.

Just about to start the bust

Crocheted washcloth

I'm suffering from sewing withdrawal symptoms. My machine has a undiagnosed tension problem. I've been working through the potential solutions (needle, bobbin, threading...) but to no avail. I need to go see my fabulous sewing machine service man but he's about an hour away and I can't manage that time in the next little while. I have a couple of projects on the boil that I can't finish. So in the meantime, I've started some crochet. Here's my first effort. I started slowly as I haven't crocheted in a while. I've been watching washcloths on Pinterest and getting inspired so when I revisited my yarn stash and found some remnant cotton I knew just what to do with it. Here's my effort.

It's pretty straightforward: chain long enough to make a square of the size you want. I made 34. I wasn't sure which stitch I wanted to use but decided on treble. It was a simple as completing enough rows to make a square (but you can make any shape you like) and then a single crochet edge with 2 chain at each corner. Not sure who it will be for but the Princess is eyeing it off already. 

Check the Technique

I've made a sewing plan. But there's more. I want to improve my technique too. So I've made a list. It's here. Hopefully I'll be able to check things off as I fill up the gaps in my wardrobe. Stay tuned.

Summer sewing 2013 wish list

Inspired by Colette's Sewing Handbook and blogs here and here (and others) I have started to plan my summer wardrobe. It's a mix of work and not-work clothes. I think I can actually make all this.

Summer wardrobe

• Black silky shirt (a Taffy maybe...)
• Black capri pants (I would like to try a Burda pattern)
• Suit 
• Casual jacket (By Hand London)
• Peasant top (self drafted from an old favourite)
• Knit top
• A summer frock that fits! (Pastille by Colette)

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Passport dress

I'm a fan of Lisette patterns. I have a bunch in my pattern stash. They've been slowly working their way to the top. I've already selected fabric for the passport dress but I found some other Lisette fabric in my stash during my tidy up. I thought of the portfolio tunic. It would make a great transition piece. With a long sleeved T and leggings. And those pockets and the princess seams (sigh). So I made it up. The A-line cut is so forgiving. I cut a size 12 to fit across the bust. The dress came together really well. Great instructions. I was sure I'd stuffed the pockets up completely but the seams were perfect!

Have you ever had the feeling as you get closer to completion on a project that something isn't quite right? I started to get that feeling just after I completed the side seams. Hmmmmmm... What is this growing feeling about? I persevered until I could get it on to test the feel. Oh dear! When I was about 15 my father let me work in his shop for the summer holidays. This was great for holiday $$$ but terrible for fashion. The shop-girl uniform was awful. And unfortunately the portfolio was too reminiscent. Far too reminiscent. So you will see a hanger shot and that's all. I'm going to wear it around the house and hope I can get over this feeling. But don't hold your breath...

Sewing questions

I've just discovered the blog Stitches and Seams. Debbie is a hoot! And a very good sewer. Check out her archive of techniques.  This week she has blogged the answers to some thought-provoking sewing questions about pattern placing and cutting. I thought I would have a go at answering them too. 

1. Do you cut with your fabric RS out or WS out? 

WS out. But only because thats what the pattern instructions say. Logically, it won't make any difference whether the right side is out or in. And I can understand why sometimes, right side out would be very useful e.g. pattern matching. I'm about to cut out a shirt and I just might do this with fabric RS out.

2. How do you make your pattern markings?

A mixture. I cut triangles for seam markings. Call me weird, but I like doing this. Tailors tacks and chalk for marks inside patterns. Which one will vary depending on fabric (slippery fabrics - tailors tacks), complexity/number of markings (higher number - more likely to be chalking).

3. Do you follow the cutting layout in patterns?

Yes. Most of the time but increasingly as an indicator only. I always compare and have been saved a couple of times when I've squeezed pieces onto a smaller length of fabric and very nearly missed a pattern piece.

4. Are you obsessed with re-folding your pattern tissue on or very close to the original fold lines?

Ummmm... Well... Yes. OCD. I'm out and proud. The tissue patterns AND instructions. Then these and any redrafted pattern pieces all go into a ziplock bag with the original envelope on top. All neat and tidy. I love flipping through my box of patterns, all in their little bags. 

5. I thought of one more ... Do you make all the markings?

Yes. I've missed them a couple of times. And then when I've realised, I've wondered if having them would make a difference. It's unlikely that they would but I really hate "what ifs"

All this talking about cutting patterns has got my fingers itching. I'm off to cut out that shirt - RS out!

Support Colette Patterns!

Have you been watching the Martha Stewart American Made Project? Did you know that Colette Patterns are participating? The company with the most votes is awarded $10000. And guess who will be getting every cent if they win? The hard working employees at Colette. How cool is that! They are currently in second! Voting continues until 22 September. Give them a hand. Check out Colette's Street Team where you can get daily voting reminders and nifty sewing tips.

REAL customer service

So how lucky am I... I was bragging about showing a friend my newest Sorbetto. I went into LOTS of details and of course going on and on about Colette Patterns. Great patterns, great attitude, great people. The next time I saw this person, I was the very grateful recipient of my very own copy of the  Colette Sewing Handbook. How generous is that! I couldn't believe it - my very own Pastille dress and Taffy shirt. Wheeeeeeeeeee!

I spent an evening perusing the pages of this lovely book. The patterns are great. It's not often that I  have been able to say 5 out of 5 for a collection. Keep an eye out for worked up versions soon. But the tidbits are what really makes it for me. Especially chapter 2. Wardrobe planning. The timing is great too, as we are transitioning into summer here in the Southern Hemisphere. I have started an inspiration folder and "want" and "must" lists for projects. I've always been ad hoc with projects. I'm now considering my wardrobe as a whole. I'm feeling inspired and empowered. I KNOW what is coming next.

So I was perusing the book...from cover to cover... And got to the end. That's it. Patterns??? PATTERNS!!! Aaarggghhh! NO PATTERNS!!!  The pattern pocket was EMPTY. Not only empty but obviously never been used. WHAAAAAAAAT!!!

In a moment of panic clarity, I realised there must be an explanation. So I sent an email to the fab peeps at Colette Patterns. "Can I purchase some please?" Within 12 hours I had a response. Not just any response but a "no you can't purchase any. We will send you some." Oh... Wow...  Not just one but two notches up in my estimation. To Kenn - Thanks. You're a pro. That was some customer service. I'm watching the post box in anticipation.

Sorbetto with sleeves

I feel that I have reached a blogging milestone. Is it 100 posts? My first anniversary? No! I've made and now blogged about my first Sorbetto top - the free pattern so generously shared by Sarai of Colette Patterns (thanks!). It's appeal for me lies in the flexibility this pattern offers. Front pleat,no pleat? What kind of fabric? Sleeves? Plain, gathered, flutter?

This is one of my patterns and fabrics in my stash. More stash busting!

  

I have been thinking about and researching working with georgette fabric. I thought a Sorbetto would be a good project to try with georgette: relatively few seams, simple shapes, low meterage. Why not!

Cutting out was relatively straight-forward. I used a straight size 12.  A wearable muslin. I must admit I struggle to see some fitting issues until a piece is made up. This is an affordable fabric so I was ok with this. I used a mixture of weights and pins. And nice sharp scissors. I think if I was contemplating more georgette clothing, I would invest in a rotary cutter.

I decided on sleeves and used the pattern from Mena at sewweekly (thanks!). To check the seam length, I walked the sleeve seams along the armscye seams. I had to focus for this - there was a narrow seam on the armscye and a 1.5" seam on the sleeve. I had to "draft" a slightly larger sleeve to fit the armscye. I use the term draft very loosely. I was flying blind.

I had checked out the Colette Flickr group for inspiration and found lots that I liked (this and this for starters). I decided that I would keep the pleat but wanted a little more embellishment. I used satin bias on the neck, constructed according to the instructions - bias on show. And then I went to my favourite button shop (LOVE). I found these. Three down the middle of the pleat. Perfect.

Construction was straightforward. Make the front pleat. Bust darts. French seams on shoulders and side seams. Join sleeves with simple seam and zigzag finish for seams. Bias on the neck and narrow hems on sleeves and the bottom. And then the three buttons.

This is a fabulous addition to my work wardrobe. It looks great with black and other dark colours.

A few learnings. I will make this pattern again (more stash busting??) but next time I will move the bust darts. Too low for me. My French seams need work. I've washed my top a few times and the seams need a haircut! I would like to make a sleeveless version but I think I will attempt a flutter sleeve next. Self-drafted - another challenge.

Every little thing

One thing that I promised myself with this blog is that I would write an honest account of my sewing. Whether big or small. Here is a small thing. For the Princess. She's grown longer lately and so many clothes are looking short. She loves leggings and would wear them all the time. Sometimes though leggings on their own aren't the right thing to wear. So what's the compromise? Skirts over the top of course. She decided she wanted a denim one. Of course I couldn't find one - not one! Not to be daunted we trooped off to our LFS and sourced about a metre of mid weight denim with just a hint of stretch. It was great fun taking the Princess though the process of fabric, style and finishings selection. She has some firm (and good!) ideas. So we landed on a straight skirt with an elasticated waist. But she wanted someone to break up the plain denim. Hmmmmmm... How about some top stitching? In pink? Awesome! So rather than two pieces of skirt, we made four and top stitched all the seams in pink - with proper top stitching thread. She loves it! I'm hoping for a photo with it on her shortly but in the meantime here is a shocking hanger shot. The pink of the stitching is very washed out.

Knits?

So I've had a go at sewing georgette, with some success, I thought I would stretch myself further and try working with knits (hahaha- no pun intended - really!). Having got my stash organised on the weekend, I rediscovered a few metres of a two-way stretch black knit. I had this slated for a wrap dress (Burda 7871) which still pushes my buttons - great for trans-seasonal dressing. Boy, am I looking forward to things warming up.

I've decided on the longer length (view A) but with the cute shorter sleeves (view B).

I've cut it out. I like cutting knits. Maybe I'll like sewing them too. I'll keep you posted.

Stash confession

Oh dear! I kinda had a vague idea that I had a stash, but now I have the concrete evidence. I had some extra time on the weekend so I pulled out all the fabric I could reach (and yes, there was some I couldn't get to in the time I had available). I then took samples from each piece and stuck them in a notebook with the following information: description (composition, weight, name of fabric type, width), shop and date of purchase, and meterage. I also included ideas about what I have planned with the fabric. I really enjoyed the process - I like ordering things. When I finished I sat back and flicked through the book, and flicked, and flicked. Oh dear! 38 pieces of fabric ranging from 0.5m to 4m. Total meterage is 58.7m. Phew! That was a bit cathartic.

So now, what am I going to do about it? I'm going to have to make a stash busting commitment. I'm a bit late (like over half a year!) to join a stashbusting sew along but I can still make the commitment here. Here goes...

I, Emma, commit to only using my fabric/notions stash for the remainder of 2013, except for lining or other notions to complete a project, and these I will only buy one project at a time.

Wheeeeeee! That feels great!

First up, a black cotton knit. Slated for a wrap dress. I could do with another one of those. Stay tuned.

Working with georgette

So I've bought some georgette. I like the way it drapes and I'm hopeful that I can use less structured patterns. But... I'm nervous about working with it. I've seen enough negative comments about working georgette to sink a ship. So I've hit the books (and the blogs and anywhere else I could think of) to research ways to make the experience less painful. This post is a summary of what I've found.

Cutting

• Put a sheet on the cutting table and make it tight using safety pins. Use an old one so it doesn't matter if it gets snipped.
• Lay tissue paper under the fabric to assist in stabilising
• Pin the pattern, fabric and paper backing and cut through all layers
• Use serrated scissors or rotary cutter

Pattern selection

• Select patterns with minimal seams, darts and facings
• Pattern details that are suitable include pin tucks, ruffles and ruching

Construction

• Baste seams
• Use French or flat-felled seams
• Use rolled hems
• Finish seams with sheer bias-cut tricot
• Do not use back stitch to secure threads - the bump can show
• Double-stitched hems work well but they can fray
• Place layer of tissue paper under georgette when sewing - tear paper away when seams are completed
• Keep fabric taut by holding in front and behind the needle
• Use another sheer for facings. Consider self-facing.
• Pin in seam allowances or use weights
• Use tailor tacks not chalk or marker
• Press seams flat before pressing open to meld stitches

Sewing machine

• Use a walking foot or roller foot
• Use a narrow needle plate
• Use 70/10 needle
• Loosen needle thread tension

I'm so proud!

So we were at The Drapery on the weekend. The Princess spent a fair bit of time in the book corner - there were kids' craft/sewing books as well as grown ups'. She has fallen in love with "Sewing School" which is fair enough because it's an excellent book. She has been inspired and came home and planned, drafted, drew, coloured and stitched this version of "your little friend"...



I'm sooooooo proud.

New LFS!

I'm excited! Really, really excited! After hearing a whiff of gossip, driving past the shell of a shop and driving past again (and again), I have finally managed to get to Adelaide's newest fabric shop The Drapery. You can check them out online at their website and Facebook. But there is no substitute for visiting them in person.

Fiona and Jane are the visionaries behind this idea. They have interesting opening hours but both women are mums with plenty of other things going on. And I think they're smart starting slowly. I kinda like the idea of selective opening hours - it makes visiting a conscious decision to visit, not just a "pop-to-the-shops".

They stock beautiful fabrics in a light filled shop. Top quality linens, fabulous knits and lots of beautiful cottons. There is a small but interesting selection of indie patterns. I have been able to hold Colette patterns in my hands (being careful not to leave drool marks). Sigh! A great book selection too. I was pleased to notice a green focus, with fabrics with a % of hemp being included for their reduced environmental footprint (as well as their lovely characteristics), and all purchases packaged in plain bown paper. They also cut fabric beautifully. Nothing better than seeing someone else holding something that is to become yours with as much care as you will.

I came away with a small package. Enough linen to make one of their simple cowls and the Poppy Tunic pattern from Make It Perfect. The Princess (who came along too) is likely to get the first version but I got the adult-sized pattern so we can both use it.

And yet another one!

I thought I had found all my UFOs but no I've found another one. This shirt was the first thing I made on my (then) new Brother BC2500. This would be about two years ago. I put the shirt together and was disappointed when the neckline was so small. It was exactly as the pattern predicted but it was too close for me. So I threw it in the back of the craft cupboard and didn't think of it again until the clean out  last week. I had seen the pattern reviewed in Pattern Review and a number of reviews made mention of the same thing. AND that they had done something about it. I felt ashamed that I hadn't done the same but also inspired to make it the way I want it. I took some of my tops that I like the neck line of and compared them. I marked out where I thought I would like it better. I spent a bit of time on this. There is something about taking a pair of scissors to something that you have made that is pretty nerve-wracking. And then I cut out the neck line. A bit at the back. A little bit more at the sides and more at the front. The original was bound with bias made from the fabric, which of course had long since disappeared from my stash. Luckily I had some plain white bias binding lying around. So I cut a narrow seam allowance and attached the bias. Just like here. I had already made the button holes and sewn on the buttons so I had to move the top one down about 3/4". This had made them slightly irregular but I'm happy with the result. Something wearable!

New neckline - with white bias binding

Button detail on the back

Stash busting and keeping warm

A little while ago I found some lovely green tweed wool and snapped up four balls. I was thinking it would make a nice scarf. One minor problem... Don't need another scarf. Then I found a lovely cowl pattern here. And I am yet to make myself a cowl. I really like the way that the buttons were used as a design feature and for practicality. When I connected the wool with the pattern I realised that the knitted texture wouldn't show up with the variegations in the wool. So I decided to use plain stockingette. But I liked the moss stitch ends so kept that. The great thing about patterns like this is that they're FAST! I knitted this up in one night. Spent a bit of time looking for some suitable buttons and found some made from coconut. Here is the finished product. More information about this on ravelry here.

Missed one!

Goodness me! I can't believe that I forgot THE bombshell dress. I started this a while ago and I've not given up. To do this dress justice though, I need to spend more time and headspace on it than I currently have. Three earlier posts here, here and here.

What's in my list of things to do

Do you ever take stock of what's on your list of up-and-coming or started-but-not-finished-but-still-want-to projects? I almost never do. Something to do with scaring myself silly or providing myself with another reason to stay away from fabric shops. But at the moment I am beginning to feel like I'll never get anything finished. This is my attempt to break things down so I mean see what's ahead and hopefully be challenged to get something finished.

I've been dying to try a Collette pattern and keep seeing finished versions of the Sorbetto. I am officially inspired. I have also been thinking about trying out sewing in georgette.  So why not do both! I found some dusty pink double georgette. I'm thinking of edging in black satin bias and perhaps some cute black buttons at the top.

Lisette passport dress two colours. The patterned fabric is Lisette's own. This will be the skirt. The plain is the top - I think that it will show off the lovely pleats nicely. I bought extra plain in case I need to line the skirt too.

Butterick pattern B5557, retro suit in olive poly shantung.

Craftsy pants fitting class by Sandra Betzina Vogue 2948

The cutest Burda dress pattern 7494 with princess seams and a contrasting peter pan collar. I found this fabulous polka dot fabric - purplish-blue with watermelon dots. I immediately thought of a white collar - this is lightly embroidered. I tried matching with a watermelon lining but it was a bit too much so a complementary dusky blue instead.

I have fabric for two more sassy librarian blouses. How cute is this flower fabric. More watermelon fabric for contrast binding. I also have some olive-on-olive patterned fabric which hasn't made it in front of the camera yet.

Also this  lace blouse

And a great reversible jumper in 10ply wool. I've called it the plum cobbler

So now comes the BIG question? Which one next? I must admit the Craftsy class to fit pants is beckoning loudly, very loudly. I have difficulty in getting a good fit in pants - me made or otherwise. But in the meantime I think I have to put a halt to increasing stash activity. Let's see how long I can last!

Goodness! Another UFO!

I can't quite believe it! I've managed to finish something else! I have been working on a knitted cardigan for over two years. I had worked all the pieces and knitted on the collar and then I just stopped. I picked it up again last week when I was at my crafty SIL's place. I started to piece it together and finished off the double crochet and crab stitch edging this week. I'm not sure why it had such a long hiatus. But the recent cooler weather here in Adelaide certainly prompted me to get it finished.

I have made this pattern before. An unfortunate experience with it being accidentally machine washed meant that it went from a generous size 10 to a generous size 6. I handed it on to my incredibly tiny other-crafty-SIL who accepted it happily. Having the opportunity to redo this pattern did have its advantages. I concentrated on the sleeve increases and decreases and the edge finish. Very very happy. I also took more time with the collar which I think looks much better. I also hand finished the button hole to strengthen it. The button is a spare one from a set made from coconut. I don't think it would have been my first choice but I'm pleased with the way it complements the wool.

Details on ravelry here.

It's been a while...

Wow! I can't believe it was been more than a month since I last posted. I have been sewing and knitting but haven't had blog time. Work has been ridiculously busy - good fun but long days. The children have had school holidays as well so broken routines have meant less "me time".

I also want to acknowledge the passing of my grandfather Maurie. He was one of my all-time favourite people. A real inspiration. Love you Grandpa. Miss you heaps.

Another UFO!

So I was down in the shed on the weekend looking for extra glasses (explanation: when we renovated our house most of our "stuff" was stored in the shed. Some of it is yet to come back) I came across a bag from a long defunct local fabric shop. I don't remember this bag at all. Inside was not 1 but 3 patterns and one had fabric cut out and ready to be made up. Even better it was in one of my favourite all time patterns that I had thought was long gone. Check this out... I absolutely love this pattern. I've made all of these pieces. The shirt was the first yoked shirt I made. And I still have it, in a muted floral fabric. Very 1980s. This version had been cut out in aqua woven gingham. I can honestly say I have no recollection of this fabric or cutting out the pattern. X is now 11 and the bag must have been hidden away for at least this length of time. Maybe I was pregnant when I bought the fabric and cut it out.

Anyway, having finished the Sassy Librarian Blouse recently I thought that this would be a good time to make this up and practice all the new things i learned. So I set to with tailors tacks and pleat marking. What fun! I have gained a heap of confidence in making up the SLB. Existing methods were confirmed and new techniques learned. I approached this pattern in the same way. And yes, my iron was on full steam and the ham got a work out. My tailors ham would have to be one of the best recent acquisitions to my sewing tools.

As this is a loose-fitting shirt, I made it true to the pattern. One very minor mod, I removed two pleats in the pockets - they wouldn't have shown up with the gingham anyway. Now it's made, I realise that I should have cut the shirt pockets on the bias to make a feature. The way the check has lined up means that the pockets disappear (although the pattern matching is awesome!)

I am really pleased with how the cuffs have turned out. They have placket openings which are a bit fiddly but the effort was worth it.

I'm also happy with the collar. Also fiddly, but the techniques I learned with the sassy librarian blouse stood me in good stead. Taking the time to do it properly was worth it. The pattern instructions are pretty good too.

I am really pleased that I offered the shirt to my mum and she accepted it. My body shape has changed significantly (!) since having children so I don't think I would get much wear out of it. I am hoping to get a photo of her in it but in the meantime here is the finished object (sorry about the daggy hanger - it was what was at hand).

Sashiko bag

What fun! I have been spending the last few weeks going through my stash - patterns and fabric - to figure out what what happens next. This is one of my favourite pastimes (sigh!) I have found a number of UFOs. Actually an embarrassing number of them. Shhhhhhh! Don't tell anyone...

But the one that has got me excited is my Sashiko bag. I don't remember much about this. I know I was given a cute Sashiko kit with the circles pattern imprinted on it. I don't remember who gave it to me (thanks!) and I don't remember when I finished it but I do remember really enjoying the process. It was very zen. Repetition with exactness. Good stuff.

Anyways... I finished the stitching and thought it would make a really great centre panel for a tote bag. I also did a bit more Sashiko. I remember(!) reading that Sashiko was used to pad garments and other stitched objects so I made a base using rice stitch. I thoight a padded base would be more robust. I found some Japanese quilting fabric (yes, no idea where I found it) and decided that it would make a good "other panel". Over a period of time, I also found some nice subdued-but-not-boring fabric that would do well as border and lining fabric. And then...

Nothing...

And no, I don't remember why. Probably something new and exciting came along. Isn't this what always happens?

So last week I found it again and was re-energised. I was lucky enough to find some old diagrams as well. I brought out my trusty  quilters ruler and got to it. All the pieces had 1/2" seams.

• Other panel the same dimensions as the Sashiko piece
• Edging for both panels of 1"
• Side panels - don't forget to add the increased height of panels + edging
• Handles - I measured reusable shopping bag handles to get an indication of how long they should be. The bag is similar dimensions.

I also had to cut extra panels for the base because my rice quilting is the same length as the Sashiko piece (should have planned this better...). I then cut out lining using panel + edging dimensions. I also had some fusible batting - quite thin but enough to give the bag some structure. After I had made up the quilting panels with their edging I fused the batting to the outer pieces.

Note to self: more research on construction is required before designing. I spent ages fitting and stitching the corner seams. I then found a heap of bag tutorials suggesting a mitred base which would have saved hours. Sigh!

Photos below showing the bag sides and base. I'm pretty happy with the result. I've asked Mr Practical to come up with a base insert to give it some structure. I wonder what he'll come up with.

Simple knitted cowl

It's hot. Damned hot. But it's March for goodness sake. We are in the midst of a 10 day heat wave when we should be having cool nights and mild days. Today I was kicked out of the house so Mr Practical could sand the floor in the 'last bastion'. This is the room in the middle of the house that was the kitchen and is to become the study. It's the last room to be renovated. Needless to say I went quickly. Anything to help. So instead of spending a sweltering day stitching in the air conditioning I spent it outside. My sewing machine was calling me but I had to make do with hand worked things. My body clock has started to crave cooler crafts like knitting. So I went to my stash and found some wool that talked to me ("come on, take me, use me"). I had been thinking about a cowl. I have heaps of scarves but I want something smaller, closer fitting.

So I found this wool in my stash (Cleckheaton folklore in green). It's a lovely green-green tweed of varying widths. Its label recommends knitting in 6.5mm needles  but I don't have any of that size (there's something that I will have to remedy). But I found some straight needles in 7mm. No rounds so I had to knit something with buttons or ... Hmmmmm buttons. I found a great pattern here. But the cable patterning would not do the lovely variations in the wool justice. But I really liked the ends - moss stitch with buttons. So I decided moss stitch ends and then simple stockingette.

To get the right width, I CO 24 stitches. Then 8 rows moss stitch. I knitted as many rows as I could in the one ball leaving enough to finish off the moss stich and buttonhole end. This was straightforward: knit 3 rows moss stitch, 4th row K4 BO3 K4 BO3 K4 BO3 K4. 5th row K4 CO3 K4 CO3 K4 CO3 K4. 3 more rows of moss stitch and BO. I was pretty happy with how it felt straight off the needles but I've set to soak and will pin it out tomorrow. Photos to come. And I think I'll need some new buttons...

Something new but old

This is something that I haven't posted about before but have been working on for a while. The Princess received a latch-hook rug kit for her birthday last year. We started it just after her birthday. But she wasn't interested for long - it was hard work - especially for little hands. So it sat there, and sat there, and sat there... just started. I have made a promise to myself to drop my number of UFOs so why not the Princess's? So over a few weeks I finished it off. It was hard on my hands too. It seemed that the rug holes were too small for the latch hook. It was a struggle to get the hook through each time. But I did it in the end. But what to do now? The kit recommended making a pillow but I wasn't sure. In the end it was the Princess's decision and she said "pillow" so pillow it was.

Following the kit directions I started to attach the completed front to a simple pink gingham backing. Honestly, this was horrible. Trying to manipulate a lightweight fabric to back a completed carpet verged in ridiculous. Keeping the stitching straight was impossible. After a few disastrous attempts I gave up. And the half finished project sat in a bag for a few months. I didn't forget it - it was in the back of my mind. I was ruminating...

So fast forward to last night - about 3am (so that makes it morning :)). I had a revelation. Make up a cushion and then stitch the rug to it (looking back this seems so obvious!). So this afternoon, whilst the Princess was out at stitching classes (!) I made up the basic pillow. I found a pink zip so added this to the equation. I used the pink gingham to make the cushion back but didn't have enough for the front. Out came the trusty calico. I cut the gingham in half and inserted the zip. I left the zip exposed. Having measured the rug (twice) I calculated how much of a seam I would need to build into the pillow. I stitched up the pillow and was immensely gratified to find my measurements were accurate. I know that there was no reason that it wouldn't be correct but there is something awesome about seeing it happen in reality. Then it was a simple hour's slip stitching the rug to the cushion. Once it was stuffed (with a pillow insert) I flipped it over and gave it a little hair cut - just a couple of longish bits. And then it was done! One less UFO and a nice surprise for the Princess. I bet she'll love it.

A quick frock for the Princess

The Princess has a few parties coming up. One of them has a 1960s theme. I was at the LFS this week trawling for shirt fabrics when I found these fabulous remnants. Groovy! We had discussed costume options and she liked the idea of a 'mod frock'. When I saw this fabric I knew I was onto something.

So washed it last night and got onto cutting and stitching tonight. I had used this pattern before for a few dresses. I didn't realise that it only went to size 7 so there was a bit of pattern drafting early on.
The pattern calls for the front piece to be cut on the fold. I had three different fabrics to select from but I couldn't decide on just one so I bought all 3. I decided to cut the front as two separate pieces and mix up the colours. Then because I had three to choose from, I added a band of the third colour to the centre front and back.

3 hours of uninterrupted (!) sewing and hey presto! Finished. Of course the Princess is asleep so I have to wait until tomorrow to see her reaction. Can't wait!

Not a tablecloth!

Happy Valentines Day! I got a special kiss this morning. Woo hoo!

Today's installment is of a cute dressing table set. Three pieces of cream cotton with white embroidery and open work. Check them out.

  

This is the centre piece. This photo didn't turn out as well as I hoped. 

This is one of the two smaller circular pieces.

This is detail from the set.

Another one!

But wait! There's another one! A tablecloth that is.

This fabulous tablecloth is a close copy of the pink one except this one is yellow. I really love this photo. How cute is this heart.

Here is the edging. I love the lemon.

This is what the flowers look like on this one. I really like the daffodils. Interestingly, in real life all of the appliqué is the same shade and that colour is about half way between the two seen.

Unfortunately this tablecloth is circular. Another one! So it's off to Recycle Revolution too.

White tablecloth

Here's the third installment. This one is another circular tablecloth. All white. I really like the open work. It's had a little use but not much. I recall a round table at Granny's place but the memory is pretty hazy so maybe it was handed on before these fab circular tablecloths got any real use. No napkins with this one.

Detail of the open work

Nice scalloped edge

More of the embroidery