Working with georgette

So I've bought some georgette. I like the way it drapes and I'm hopeful that I can use less structured patterns. But... I'm nervous about working with it. I've seen enough negative comments about working georgette to sink a ship. So I've hit the books (and the blogs and anywhere else I could think of) to research ways to make the experience less painful. This post is a summary of what I've found.

Cutting

• Put a sheet on the cutting table and make it tight using safety pins. Use an old one so it doesn't matter if it gets snipped.
• Lay tissue paper under the fabric to assist in stabilising
• Pin the pattern, fabric and paper backing and cut through all layers
• Use serrated scissors or rotary cutter

Pattern selection

• Select patterns with minimal seams, darts and facings
• Pattern details that are suitable include pin tucks, ruffles and ruching

Construction

• Baste seams
• Use French or flat-felled seams
• Use rolled hems
• Finish seams with sheer bias-cut tricot
• Do not use back stitch to secure threads - the bump can show
• Double-stitched hems work well but they can fray
• Place layer of tissue paper under georgette when sewing - tear paper away when seams are completed
• Keep fabric taut by holding in front and behind the needle
• Use another sheer for facings. Consider self-facing.
• Pin in seam allowances or use weights
• Use tailor tacks not chalk or marker
• Press seams flat before pressing open to meld stitches

Sewing machine

• Use a walking foot or roller foot
• Use a narrow needle plate
• Use 70/10 needle
• Loosen needle thread tension