Check the Technique

I've made a sewing plan. But there's more. I want to improve my technique too. So I've made a list. It's here. Hopefully I'll be able to check things off as I fill up the gaps in my wardrobe. Stay tuned.

Summer sewing 2013 wish list

Inspired by Colette's Sewing Handbook and blogs here and here (and others) I have started to plan my summer wardrobe. It's a mix of work and not-work clothes. I think I can actually make all this.

Summer wardrobe

• Black silky shirt (a Taffy maybe...)
• Black capri pants (I would like to try a Burda pattern)
• Suit 
• Casual jacket (By Hand London)
• Peasant top (self drafted from an old favourite)
• Knit top
• A summer frock that fits! (Pastille by Colette)

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Passport dress

I'm a fan of Lisette patterns. I have a bunch in my pattern stash. They've been slowly working their way to the top. I've already selected fabric for the passport dress but I found some other Lisette fabric in my stash during my tidy up. I thought of the portfolio tunic. It would make a great transition piece. With a long sleeved T and leggings. And those pockets and the princess seams (sigh). So I made it up. The A-line cut is so forgiving. I cut a size 12 to fit across the bust. The dress came together really well. Great instructions. I was sure I'd stuffed the pockets up completely but the seams were perfect!

Have you ever had the feeling as you get closer to completion on a project that something isn't quite right? I started to get that feeling just after I completed the side seams. Hmmmmmm... What is this growing feeling about? I persevered until I could get it on to test the feel. Oh dear! When I was about 15 my father let me work in his shop for the summer holidays. This was great for holiday $$$ but terrible for fashion. The shop-girl uniform was awful. And unfortunately the portfolio was too reminiscent. Far too reminiscent. So you will see a hanger shot and that's all. I'm going to wear it around the house and hope I can get over this feeling. But don't hold your breath...

Sewing questions

I've just discovered the blog Stitches and Seams. Debbie is a hoot! And a very good sewer. Check out her archive of techniques.  This week she has blogged the answers to some thought-provoking sewing questions about pattern placing and cutting. I thought I would have a go at answering them too. 

1. Do you cut with your fabric RS out or WS out? 

WS out. But only because thats what the pattern instructions say. Logically, it won't make any difference whether the right side is out or in. And I can understand why sometimes, right side out would be very useful e.g. pattern matching. I'm about to cut out a shirt and I just might do this with fabric RS out.

2. How do you make your pattern markings?

A mixture. I cut triangles for seam markings. Call me weird, but I like doing this. Tailors tacks and chalk for marks inside patterns. Which one will vary depending on fabric (slippery fabrics - tailors tacks), complexity/number of markings (higher number - more likely to be chalking).

3. Do you follow the cutting layout in patterns?

Yes. Most of the time but increasingly as an indicator only. I always compare and have been saved a couple of times when I've squeezed pieces onto a smaller length of fabric and very nearly missed a pattern piece.

4. Are you obsessed with re-folding your pattern tissue on or very close to the original fold lines?

Ummmm... Well... Yes. OCD. I'm out and proud. The tissue patterns AND instructions. Then these and any redrafted pattern pieces all go into a ziplock bag with the original envelope on top. All neat and tidy. I love flipping through my box of patterns, all in their little bags. 

5. I thought of one more ... Do you make all the markings?

Yes. I've missed them a couple of times. And then when I've realised, I've wondered if having them would make a difference. It's unlikely that they would but I really hate "what ifs"

All this talking about cutting patterns has got my fingers itching. I'm off to cut out that shirt - RS out!

Support Colette Patterns!

Have you been watching the Martha Stewart American Made Project? Did you know that Colette Patterns are participating? The company with the most votes is awarded $10000. And guess who will be getting every cent if they win? The hard working employees at Colette. How cool is that! They are currently in second! Voting continues until 22 September. Give them a hand. Check out Colette's Street Team where you can get daily voting reminders and nifty sewing tips.

REAL customer service

So how lucky am I... I was bragging about showing a friend my newest Sorbetto. I went into LOTS of details and of course going on and on about Colette Patterns. Great patterns, great attitude, great people. The next time I saw this person, I was the very grateful recipient of my very own copy of the  Colette Sewing Handbook. How generous is that! I couldn't believe it - my very own Pastille dress and Taffy shirt. Wheeeeeeeeeee!

I spent an evening perusing the pages of this lovely book. The patterns are great. It's not often that I  have been able to say 5 out of 5 for a collection. Keep an eye out for worked up versions soon. But the tidbits are what really makes it for me. Especially chapter 2. Wardrobe planning. The timing is great too, as we are transitioning into summer here in the Southern Hemisphere. I have started an inspiration folder and "want" and "must" lists for projects. I've always been ad hoc with projects. I'm now considering my wardrobe as a whole. I'm feeling inspired and empowered. I KNOW what is coming next.

So I was perusing the book...from cover to cover... And got to the end. That's it. Patterns??? PATTERNS!!! Aaarggghhh! NO PATTERNS!!!  The pattern pocket was EMPTY. Not only empty but obviously never been used. WHAAAAAAAAT!!!

In a moment of panic clarity, I realised there must be an explanation. So I sent an email to the fab peeps at Colette Patterns. "Can I purchase some please?" Within 12 hours I had a response. Not just any response but a "no you can't purchase any. We will send you some." Oh... Wow...  Not just one but two notches up in my estimation. To Kenn - Thanks. You're a pro. That was some customer service. I'm watching the post box in anticipation.

Sorbetto with sleeves

I feel that I have reached a blogging milestone. Is it 100 posts? My first anniversary? No! I've made and now blogged about my first Sorbetto top - the free pattern so generously shared by Sarai of Colette Patterns (thanks!). It's appeal for me lies in the flexibility this pattern offers. Front pleat,no pleat? What kind of fabric? Sleeves? Plain, gathered, flutter?

This is one of my patterns and fabrics in my stash. More stash busting!

  

I have been thinking about and researching working with georgette fabric. I thought a Sorbetto would be a good project to try with georgette: relatively few seams, simple shapes, low meterage. Why not!

Cutting out was relatively straight-forward. I used a straight size 12.  A wearable muslin. I must admit I struggle to see some fitting issues until a piece is made up. This is an affordable fabric so I was ok with this. I used a mixture of weights and pins. And nice sharp scissors. I think if I was contemplating more georgette clothing, I would invest in a rotary cutter.

I decided on sleeves and used the pattern from Mena at sewweekly (thanks!). To check the seam length, I walked the sleeve seams along the armscye seams. I had to focus for this - there was a narrow seam on the armscye and a 1.5" seam on the sleeve. I had to "draft" a slightly larger sleeve to fit the armscye. I use the term draft very loosely. I was flying blind.

I had checked out the Colette Flickr group for inspiration and found lots that I liked (this and this for starters). I decided that I would keep the pleat but wanted a little more embellishment. I used satin bias on the neck, constructed according to the instructions - bias on show. And then I went to my favourite button shop (LOVE). I found these. Three down the middle of the pleat. Perfect.

Construction was straightforward. Make the front pleat. Bust darts. French seams on shoulders and side seams. Join sleeves with simple seam and zigzag finish for seams. Bias on the neck and narrow hems on sleeves and the bottom. And then the three buttons.

This is a fabulous addition to my work wardrobe. It looks great with black and other dark colours.

A few learnings. I will make this pattern again (more stash busting??) but next time I will move the bust darts. Too low for me. My French seams need work. I've washed my top a few times and the seams need a haircut! I would like to make a sleeveless version but I think I will attempt a flutter sleeve next. Self-drafted - another challenge.