Sunday 8 September 2013

Sorbetto with sleeves

I feel that I have reached a blogging milestone. Is it 100 posts? My first anniversary? No! I've made and now blogged about my first Sorbetto top - the free pattern so generously shared by Sarai of Colette Patterns (thanks!). It's appeal for me lies in the flexibility this pattern offers. Front pleat,no pleat? What kind of fabric? Sleeves? Plain, gathered, flutter?

This is one of my patterns and fabrics in my stash. More stash busting!
  
I have been thinking about and researching working with georgette fabric. I thought a Sorbetto would be a good project to try with georgette: relatively few seams, simple shapes, low meterage. Why not!

Cutting out was relatively straight-forward. I used a straight size 12.  A wearable muslin. I must admit I struggle to see some fitting issues until a piece is made up. This is an affordable fabric so I was ok with this. I used a mixture of weights and pins. And nice sharp scissors. I think if I was contemplating more georgette clothing, I would invest in a rotary cutter.

I decided on sleeves and used the pattern from Mena at sewweekly (thanks!). To check the seam length, I walked the sleeve seams along the armscye seams. I had to focus for this - there was a narrow seam on the armscye and a 1.5" seam on the sleeve. I had to "draft" a slightly larger sleeve to fit the armscye. I use the term draft very loosely. I was flying blind.

I had checked out the Colette Flickr group for inspiration and found lots that I liked (this and this for starters). I decided that I would keep the pleat but wanted a little more embellishment. I used satin bias on the neck, constructed according to the instructions - bias on show. And then I went to my favourite button shop (LOVE). I found these. Three down the middle of the pleat. Perfect.

Construction was straightforward. Make the front pleat. Bust darts. French seams on shoulders and side seams. Join sleeves with simple seam and zigzag finish for seams. Bias on the neck and narrow hems on sleeves and the bottom. And then the three buttons.

This is a fabulous addition to my work wardrobe. It looks great with black and other dark colours.

A few learnings. I will make this pattern again (more stash busting??) but next time I will move the bust darts. Too low for me. My French seams need work. I've washed my top a few times and the seams need a haircut! I would like to make a sleeveless version but I think I will attempt a flutter sleeve next. Self-drafted - another challenge.

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