Making bias binding

I decided that my self drafted peasant blouse required it's own bias. The fabric pattern was far too unique and varied to attempt to match with anything made commercially. Solid bias would have been awful. Plus I have managed to acquire two new bias making tools (these from Clover).

I did have the additional challenge of having very limited amounts of fabric. Piecing would be required. So I did the obligatory research and discovered some useful tutorials here and here. I also took the time to review the instructions that came with the tools (is this too obvious?).

Anyways, I still managed to stuff up the fabric joins. Some were the "right way" and some were the "wrong way".  Luckily the length between the rights and wrongs were sufficient to have seams facing the same way. Extra luckily, it's pretty hard to find the difference between the sides when there's just barely 1/2" to scrutinise. Even better, there is over 3m left and, yes, there are some interesting seams.

I've officially commenced a bias stash!

Self drafted peasant blouse - Part 2

Very late post. I finished this in November!

So I've pulled one of my favourite tops apart (read about this process here). Now I'm going to make a new one!

I ironed each piece so I could identify symmetrical and mirror image pieces. I contemplated creating new paper pattern pieces but decided to just use the original fabric pieces. This worked well - no movement like paper patterns. The original also had a woven stripe so the grain line is obvious.

I've had some vintage (70s I think) brown/back/cream cotton complete with paisleys in my stash for a little while and knew that it would look fab as a peasant top. Additional challenges were less meterage than I remembered and it's very narrow (a smidge over 90 cm) which  makes pattern piece placement a challenge. Also the pattern is non-symmetrical across the 90cm. InitIally this troubled me - the centre should be symmetric, shouldn't it? Shouldn't it? Ummmm, no. It doesn't. What a liberating statement! Woo hoo! It's not symmetric around the centre fold on either the front or the back. But that's ok. I'm happy with it and that's what counts.

The fabric is quite sheer but not slippery so only tension issues (what else!). 

I referred very closely to the deconstruction notes (in reverse!) and managed an acceptable copy of the original.

See, not symmetric!

A few learnings:

• Whist similar, the weight of the copy fabric is lighter and you can tell from the drape. The top is actually slightly A-line.
• Peasant tops with at least 3/4 length sleeves are good. 1/2 sleeves are a bit short (but still ok)
• I need to practice faced gathered necklines. This is too gathered.

Enough already!

I commit to not buying any new fabric, apart from lining or interlining, until I have at least sewn my planned list for 2014. 

I commit to not buying new patterns unless they are discounted and are on my "list".

Planning some more

It's funny how home and work life can collide. I have just finished a bunch of reviews of 2013 at work. It's interesting work. Now it's done, I can finish off my planning for the year. And at the same time, I have felt the need to have a think about planning my creative activities. So maybe a little reflection of 2013 is necessary here too. I posted in September about Summer sewing plans. So how have I gone?

• Black silky shirt (a Taffy maybe...)
• Black capri pants (I would like to try a Burda pattern) Burda 7068 blogged here
• Suit 
• Casual jacket (By Hand London)
• Peasant top (self drafted from an old favourite) done! Blogged here
• Knit top
• A summer frock that fits! (Pastille by Colette)

Given my machine tension issues and the fact that I've almost finished my Miette cardigan, I'm quite happy with my progress.

I've also done a toile for my Pastille (yet to be blogged) and I'm very happy with the result so far.

So what's next? Does this list still stand?

Black Burda Pants

The last piece I finished in 2013 was a pair of black ankle-length pants in black stretch cotton sateen. I used Burda 7068 - a semi fitted pant with side zip, rear darts and front pleats. I used the wider waistband (view A) but shorter length (view B).

I decided to cut out a size 14. I'm usually a 12 but I've not used a burda pant pattern before. My measurements are larger than a 12 in the waist but less than a 12 in the hips. But my last pants experience ended up too small and is now languishing In the cupboard.

I checked the fit using the Sandra Betzina trick of machine basting the side seams before adding the waistband and zipper and trying them on inside out to check the fit [best fitting idea ever - I'll be using that one. I ended up taking from 1.5cm to 3cm in on both inside and outside  leg - most at the hip.
This isn't a big deal given that I'd upped a size and used stretch fabric.

I'm pretty happy with the result. There is some pulling at the bottom of the front pleat but not significant. These will do great service for work and replace a pair that are just about trashed.

The only other modification was for a sway waist - increased width of darts at back and took a small dart in the back waistband.

Poor light and crappy camera so there's not too much detail

Self drafted peasant blouse - Part 1

Have you ever loved a piece of clothing so much that you can't bear to part with it? My most recent experience like this has been a peasant blouse. I've worn it to the point that it has holes and stains. If my mum saw me in it, she would send me back into my room to change (thanks Mum!). Rather than bin it, I decided to take it apart to see how it was made and maybe recreate it. I was philosophical about the "loss" of the top. I couldn't wear it in public anymore and it would be worth it if I could cut a pattern. So I gave it a go.

The blouse was slightly a-line raglan style with full length sleeves. The neckline and wrists were gathered. And the wrists slashed and bound with bias. The closures were a small button on elastic, nifty! There was a 2" slash at the centre front that was bound with bias. My favourite feature was the neckline which used a narrow faced neck as casing for a tie, which had great metal beads at the ends to stop the tie pulling through and also made the ties hang when done up.

Before I hacked it apart at the seams I took a moment to plan the process and it was worth it.

1. Make some space - no one was allowed near enough to move/lose anything
2. Set aside some time - the fewer sittings required, the less likely you are to lose or forget something
3. Keep notes - how wide was the bias on the wrists? How long was it? How much was the neckline gathered in? How wide were the seam allowances? Where is the grain line?
4. Mark pieces as they come off - was this the back or front?
5. Look for symmetry - could the front and back be cut on the fold?
6. Think about the reconstruction process - how will this all go together again?

Then came the moment of no return. I used small but sharp scissors to cut the seams apart. This was messy. Lots of little bits of thread.

The pieces were as follows:

• Front (gathered at the neck, cut on the fold with a 2" slit at centre bound with bias binding)
• Back also on fold and gathered at the neck
• Arms - not quite symmetric but gathered at both the neck and wrists - also bias binding on a 2" slit at the wrists
• Three interfaced casing neck pieces - one across the back and two for the front between the shoulders and the neck slit
• Pull ties to thread though the neck and tie together

I measured all the gathers before I pulled them out. I should also mention that the fabric had a stripe woven into it so grain line was easy. I measured all the seam allowances as well. I marked each piece (1 to 7) and then drew up diagrams of them with grain line, gathers, the slits, the seam allowances. Anything I could think of really. Any construction points (eg bind the neck slit before attaching the casing) were also noted.

Next steps: find some cool fabric and think about pattern placement. 

Colette Sewing Handbook Merigue

Before the sewing machine tension palaver, I had cut out my first Colette Sewing Handbook pattern. Whilst I REALLY want to make up the Pastille dress (more about that later) I thought that I should start at the beginning so I've kicked off with a Meringue skirt. In my stash I found some plain cotton-linen blend in a dusky blue. I've had it forever and I'm happy to risk it as (hopefully) a wearable muslin. Perhaps a little lightweight but I also want to line it. I have enough in a mid blue bemsilk remnant.

I've read up on other people's experiences (check my Meringue study on Pinterest). Some comments about sizing so I measured carefully. I'm midway between a 10 and 12 so I cut a 12. Better to be too big than too small.

More research needed on invisible zips. Yes, I've never done one before. But it's got to be done (and it's one of my technique challenges).

In my web trawling I've also found this great tutorial from Roses on Toast for adding lining to a Meringue. Great tip on sewing the lining and waist facing together and then treating them as one piece when sewing to the main skirt.