Planning some more

It's funny how home and work life can collide. I have just finished a bunch of reviews of 2013 at work. It's interesting work. Now it's done, I can finish off my planning for the year. And at the same time, I have felt the need to have a think about planning my creative activities. So maybe a little reflection of 2013 is necessary here too. I posted in September about Summer sewing plans. So how have I gone?

• Black silky shirt (a Taffy maybe...)
• Black capri pants (I would like to try a Burda pattern) Burda 7068 blogged here
• Suit 
• Casual jacket (By Hand London)
• Peasant top (self drafted from an old favourite) done! Blogged here
• Knit top
• A summer frock that fits! (Pastille by Colette)

Given my machine tension issues and the fact that I've almost finished my Miette cardigan, I'm quite happy with my progress.

I've also done a toile for my Pastille (yet to be blogged) and I'm very happy with the result so far.

So what's next? Does this list still stand?

Black Burda Pants

The last piece I finished in 2013 was a pair of black ankle-length pants in black stretch cotton sateen. I used Burda 7068 - a semi fitted pant with side zip, rear darts and front pleats. I used the wider waistband (view A) but shorter length (view B).

I decided to cut out a size 14. I'm usually a 12 but I've not used a burda pant pattern before. My measurements are larger than a 12 in the waist but less than a 12 in the hips. But my last pants experience ended up too small and is now languishing In the cupboard.

I checked the fit using the Sandra Betzina trick of machine basting the side seams before adding the waistband and zipper and trying them on inside out to check the fit [best fitting idea ever - I'll be using that one. I ended up taking from 1.5cm to 3cm in on both inside and outside  leg - most at the hip.
This isn't a big deal given that I'd upped a size and used stretch fabric.

I'm pretty happy with the result. There is some pulling at the bottom of the front pleat but not significant. These will do great service for work and replace a pair that are just about trashed.

The only other modification was for a sway waist - increased width of darts at back and took a small dart in the back waistband.

Poor light and crappy camera so there's not too much detail

Self drafted peasant blouse - Part 1

Have you ever loved a piece of clothing so much that you can't bear to part with it? My most recent experience like this has been a peasant blouse. I've worn it to the point that it has holes and stains. If my mum saw me in it, she would send me back into my room to change (thanks Mum!). Rather than bin it, I decided to take it apart to see how it was made and maybe recreate it. I was philosophical about the "loss" of the top. I couldn't wear it in public anymore and it would be worth it if I could cut a pattern. So I gave it a go.

The blouse was slightly a-line raglan style with full length sleeves. The neckline and wrists were gathered. And the wrists slashed and bound with bias. The closures were a small button on elastic, nifty! There was a 2" slash at the centre front that was bound with bias. My favourite feature was the neckline which used a narrow faced neck as casing for a tie, which had great metal beads at the ends to stop the tie pulling through and also made the ties hang when done up.

Before I hacked it apart at the seams I took a moment to plan the process and it was worth it.

1. Make some space - no one was allowed near enough to move/lose anything
2. Set aside some time - the fewer sittings required, the less likely you are to lose or forget something
3. Keep notes - how wide was the bias on the wrists? How long was it? How much was the neckline gathered in? How wide were the seam allowances? Where is the grain line?
4. Mark pieces as they come off - was this the back or front?
5. Look for symmetry - could the front and back be cut on the fold?
6. Think about the reconstruction process - how will this all go together again?

Then came the moment of no return. I used small but sharp scissors to cut the seams apart. This was messy. Lots of little bits of thread.

The pieces were as follows:

• Front (gathered at the neck, cut on the fold with a 2" slit at centre bound with bias binding)
• Back also on fold and gathered at the neck
• Arms - not quite symmetric but gathered at both the neck and wrists - also bias binding on a 2" slit at the wrists
• Three interfaced casing neck pieces - one across the back and two for the front between the shoulders and the neck slit
• Pull ties to thread though the neck and tie together

I measured all the gathers before I pulled them out. I should also mention that the fabric had a stripe woven into it so grain line was easy. I measured all the seam allowances as well. I marked each piece (1 to 7) and then drew up diagrams of them with grain line, gathers, the slits, the seam allowances. Anything I could think of really. Any construction points (eg bind the neck slit before attaching the casing) were also noted.

Next steps: find some cool fabric and think about pattern placement. 

Colette Sewing Handbook Merigue

Before the sewing machine tension palaver, I had cut out my first Colette Sewing Handbook pattern. Whilst I REALLY want to make up the Pastille dress (more about that later) I thought that I should start at the beginning so I've kicked off with a Meringue skirt. In my stash I found some plain cotton-linen blend in a dusky blue. I've had it forever and I'm happy to risk it as (hopefully) a wearable muslin. Perhaps a little lightweight but I also want to line it. I have enough in a mid blue bemsilk remnant.

I've read up on other people's experiences (check my Meringue study on Pinterest). Some comments about sizing so I measured carefully. I'm midway between a 10 and 12 so I cut a 12. Better to be too big than too small.

More research needed on invisible zips. Yes, I've never done one before. But it's got to be done (and it's one of my technique challenges).

In my web trawling I've also found this great tutorial from Roses on Toast for adding lining to a Meringue. Great tip on sewing the lining and waist facing together and then treating them as one piece when sewing to the main skirt.

A little Christmas sewing

I'm testing out my "fixed" machine. I thought it would be smart to start small. Doesn't come much smaller than sewing for The Littlest Cousin. Nothing quicker or cuter than a couple of elastic waisted skirts. The Princess and I took a quick trip to Spotties looking for some girlie fabric. It's harder than you think finding something that we could be sure that she would like. But we found some cute spots - perfect. And then matched the lime green. Two skirts - one with lace and one with a ruffle.

Once again thanks to Blissful Sewing Easy Peasy Summer Skirt for the ruffle skirt pattern and a more recent find at Make It Grand - dimensions for elastic waist skirts for 6 months to 16.

One more present crossed off the list.

The lime green looks much better than this

This is my favourite. Love the touch of lace. 

It's tense here!

So I finally got back to the fabulous sewing machine service people and spent about half an hour with Richard, trying to diagnose my sewing machine issues - tension. I've never had such a technical discussion - stitch line, length, top thread, bobbin thread, thread type, thread quality. And through trial and error, we came to the conclusion that:

1. I could wind my bobbins better - nothing better than watching the expert thread and wind a bobbin. Don't wind too fast - this can stretch the thread and may result in puckered seams.
2. I need to use better quality thread. This is a symptom of using the same thread that I (and my mum) have always used, not realising that it is not as good as it used to be, and not knowing the best alternatives.
3. There's nothing wrong with dialling down the tension to deal with lower quality (rougher) threads. 

So, I'm off to dust off my "current" UFOs. Wish me luck.

My Miette

I have had Andi Satterland's Miette in my favourites on Ravelry for a while now. Not only is it a really cute cardigan, its free! Thanks Andi! I decided it knit it (the first time) in cotton, but I've struggled to find something that I really liked. I don't see much 10ply cotton around. Anyways, I stumbled across some 10 ply wool by Cleckheaton at my local Spotty and kept walking the first time - didn't like any of the colours and was still hanging out for cotton. But then the next time I was browsing, a flash of yellowy-green caught my eye (a colour I wear in one of my most-complimented print dresses). I'd found it!

The wool - the photo doesn't do the colour justice.

I cast on one night on the weekend. I've not knitted in this style before. Top-down, yoke first. I frogged my first cast on. Got distracted in the first few rows where there are lots of yo, ssk and k2tog. Pretty difficult to undo rows with all that going on.  Once I got into the groove the rows grew quickly. Andi uses markers very sensibly, making increases pretty straightforward. I've just started the bust so I've got a ways to go. Having said that, 10ply does knit up pretty quickly.

Just about to start the bust